Wednesday, August 15, 2007

Returning to the States

I leave for the states tomorrow, leaving this lovely Lamma Island and Hong Kong where it has been very warm and muggy ever since the tropical storm came through. (The last ferry to the island apparently issued life jackets and everyone had to wear them... some pretty freaked out people.)

One little tidbit I wanted to share before I leave Asian shores is about this nature reserve I visited day before yesterday. Mai Po Marsh is just a short train and bus ride away from the heart of Hong Kong. It is a large reserve that is home to many birds throughout the year. During the Fall/Spring migration apparently there are hundreds of species. One article listed that over 400 species have been sighted here. It is a pretty venue and a very nice break from the intensity of the human environment in the area. Here are some links to read more about it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mai_Po_Marshes and http://www.hkoutdoors.com/hong-kong-birding/mai-po-birding.html

I saw birds that I've never seen before and it was a great way to spend a day even though it was in the middle of the summer and I got there in the late morning as things were heating up... still it was worth it. All the trails are asphalt or concrete, so it makes it very accessible to people. I don't know the exact arrangement, but it seems that the World Wildlife Fund of Hong Kong has some sort of concession to issue permits, do volunteer work, etc. There are a number of blinds (they call them hides) to look out from. The primary bird species I kept seeing was the Great Egret. Cost was around $16 to get in and a deposit of around $19 needs to be left. Visitors are issued two permits: one for the reserve and one for entering into a restricted area. You see, one edge of the marsh is the fence line between "Mainland" China. It was weird to be walking along this trail with a tall fence (15 feet?) on one side, cyclone barbed wire atop that, high intensity spot lights every few feet, and guard towers (now empty)... all this seems to be remnants of a time when communist China was in a different phase. I don't know if they are used anymore.

Almost within earshot of the reserve is the growing metropolis of Shenzhen. When I was in this area 26 years ago, this was a small town... maybe even a village. It was so small I have no memory of it. It is the place where people cross from the New Territories of Hong Kong to "Mainland" China. Back then it was where I got off the train, had my passport checked, and got on another train/bus. Now it is a major manufacturing and industrial center. In a recent paper article, they are talking about wanting the Shenzhen/Hong Kong metroplex to rival L.A., New York and Tokyo.

When/if that happens I hope they learn from other's and not repeat the same development mistakes, like keeping the Mai Po Marsh healthy. I hope they choose as an example of a successful city a place like Portland. The green belt that has been created with Washington Park allows for open access by many species of wildlife. Though there is not a lot of mammals here, I hope they help to keep the area clean enough for the birds to come and live, or to migrate through.

That is the challenge that modern China faces... will they repeat the mistakes of countries who have gone before them? I hope not. This marsh is but one small example of where they could do it right and learn how to allow habitat to be maintained while they build their infrastructure to support their people. It was heartening for me to see the environmental education they are doing here and know that there are people trying to help maintain the ecological balance amidst such great odds.

Hong Kong has a lot of diversity: from the Gucci and Prada stores where they sell $1000 hand bags to the pure white feathers of a Great Egret flying over the Shenzhen River. It has been a great place to spend time. I went through the Jade Market today (http://cyberfair.fixip.net/shop_market003.htm) and then returned to Lamma Island. This island has been a haven for me: quiet, away from the hubbub, and a 30 min. ferry ride to get here. If you are ever in this neck of the woods, check this little island/village out.

Well, it is time to close this chapter and my travels in Asia. I leave here early tomorrow and will be traveling for around 18 hours (if things go as planned). I'll miss not flying Cathay Pacific (an airline that really deserves it's first class reputation) because they didn't have any seats, but I'll discover what China Airlines has to offer.

Take care and I'll do some wrap-ups when I'm back in the states.

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